Coastal processes and coastal sediment transport

To understand how sediments are moved on the beach, as well as to validate the goodness of theoretical expressions on sediment transport both in the longshore and cross-shore directions, sediment transport field surveys are carried out specially designed for the studied beach. They include in situ measurements of wave and wind properties, determination of depth of closure, use of tagged particles (fluorescent and RFID tracers for sand and gravel beaches respectively), etc. The study and evolution of morphological elements, such as foreshore slope, beach cusps and ridge and runnel systems is measured through time series of digital elevation models obtained from 3D topographic data. Sand traps coupled with wind data measured in situ are used to determine aeolian sediment movement.

Responsible person: Ignacio Alonso Bilbao